September 14, 2021

Bicol’s Best—from Laing to Pili Nuts

With its distinct flavor profile emboldened by the heat of red chili and the richness of coconut milk, Bicolano food is truly one of the most beguiling Filipino regional cuisines. Bicol is a large administrative region in the southern end of Luzon. It comprises six provinces: Albay, Camarines Norte, Camarines Sur, Sorsogon, Catanduanes, and Masbate. The region is mostly surrounded by bodies of water, except the northern provinces of Camarines Norte and Sur which are bordered to the west by the province of Quezon.

During the Spanish occupation, the area had many astilleros or shipyards where they built the famed Manila galleons using the forest’s hardwood. These sailing vessels were used for trade between Asia and the Americas. This is probably the way Mexico’s chili peppers eventually became abundant in the Bicol region, making the most indelible mark on their cuisine.

Flavorful, fiery, and truly remarkable, Bicolano cuisine is making its way into pantries all over the country and the globe through bottled laing (taro leaves with meat or seafood, cooked coconut milk), Bicol Express (long chilis, pork or seafood, simmered in coconut milk), and exquisite pili nuts sweetened or flavored in every way imaginable. Here are some of the most exciting brands representing the region.

Que Rica

Rica Dacudao Buenaflor may only be Bicolana by affinity (her husband Carlo is a local), but her brand of frozen ready-to-cook meats, jarred guinataan (dishes cooked in “gata” or coconut milk), and flavored pili nuts is currently making the loudest splash for their regional cuisine. They are best known for their laing longganisa, frozen pinangat, bottled products by the ladies of Gainza in Camarines Sur, pineapple-cured chicken tocino, and premium pili sourced from Sorsogon.

Sally’s Bicol Express

This homegrown operation is based in Las Piñas, but the flavors are as authentic as it gets. Their bottled Bicol Express comes in different variants: santol (cotton fruit), laing, pork, and kinunot (a coconut cream stew typically composed of stingray and moringa). Aside from the Bicol express line, they also carry Sally’s jams, combining local fruits with imported nuts.

J Emmanuel Pastries - The House of Pili

This brand has become a showcase of pili nut products in Canaman, Camarines Sur where both local and foreign buyers can drop in and experience their offerings. One of the success stories of the DTI Development Program, the company’s best-selling mazapan and pili nuts in various flavors are a favorite pasalubong not only from within the region but all over the country.

Vicky’s Pili and Food Products

In 1981, Joe and Vicky Navarro established Vicky’s Pili and Food Products, selling their pili nut treats beside a bus terminal in the quiet town of Irosin, Sorsogon. It continues to be a family-run operation and has grown since the children took over in 2010, bringing in fresh business practices and innovations in production.

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